|
Catch & Release
by Jennifer Mancini
Belize
by Ann Miller
A Passion for Fly Fishing
by Bev Wilson
Donny & Me
by Adrienne Rudich
Under the Weather
by Ann Miller All articles and writings are copyrighted by the author and should not be used/copied or reissued without prior permission.
|
DOCTOR DEAN'S DEATHLY NO OPTION FLY
"---So long as there is unpredictability
there will be---adventure! With its thousands of miles of clear
free flowing and undammed rivers; with its hundreds of pristine
lakes; with its wild unplanted trout; with its extremely challenging
fishing situations; with its tiny human population and lack of industry;
with one of the safest and loveliest settings on this planet---yes,
with all this and more---New Zealand is home to our finest fishing
adventures."
This quote by Mel Krieger in the Foreword of NEW
ZEALAND'S TOP TROUT FISHING WATERS by John Kent and Patti Magnano
Madsen made me also dream of a trip to the down under country of
New Zealand. My daughter Kristen and I decided to try the fishing
in New Zealand. It was my task to plan the itinerary, especially
the fishing outing. Kristen had been there on two previous visits,
so she gave me a pretty accurate picture of what to expect.
We were going in the first two weeks of February,
so that meant we would have the optimum fishing on the South Island.
I gave Kristen several options for guides. She chose Dean Bell's
Wilderness Blue Ribbon Guides. I called Dean, and he happened to
have a cancellation the week we wanted to fish. This was pure luck
since his date book is filled a year or two ahead of time. A guide
is a must in New Zealand. The waters are so clear there that greenhorns
scare all the fish before they have the fly on the line. The guides
are experts at sighting the fish.
I dragged four rods and all the fishing gear---two
pair of waders, two pair of boots, reels, and all the other necessary
items we would need---halfway around the world. We flew into Auckland
to see the sights on the North Island and leisurely drive south.
When we arrived we went right to the car rental for our vehicle.
We were disappointed to find that the car company required that
we stay on the North Island for three days before we could cross
to the South Island. This meant we would only have a day for the
ride down the rugged coast of the South Island.
We regrouped and decided to make the best of the
situation. The countryside is lush and green with millions of sheep
grazing on hillocks and vales. We spent two days exploring the Maori
culture around the Rotorua geothermal area. The Maori villages,
with hot geyser springs bubbling in their back yards, were very
quaint. The handmade crafts were earthy and beautiful. We enjoyed
their traditional Hangi Feast, where the food is steamed with the
heat of the hot springs, with a charming couple from Brussels. Our
last night before the ferry crossing to the South Island was spent
in the Marlborough wine country. We stayed in a bed and breakfast
with a quaint retired couple who had lovingly restored their home.
In the evening we feasted on New Zealand steak, eggplant and sampled
a local vintage at a restored 19th century hotel. The people of
New Zealand are extremely friendly and outgoing.
The next morning we arose early to drop off our
car and ferry to the South Island, with dolphins and birds as our
travel companions. We rushed to pickup our next vehicle to traverse
the whole island in one day and into the night, to reach our fishing
destination. The rugged west coast shoreline has breathtaking views
of the ocean, with an occasional seal colony on one side, and mountains
on the other. Glaciers are found in many places. New Zealand has
few freeways; most roads are two lanes, and the South Island's are
curvy and mountainous.
When it was evident that our arrival time in Te
Anau would be extremely late, we called Dean, and he arranged for
our motel room on Lake Te Anau to be left open. We crawled into
bed, after sixteen hours of driving, at 2:00 in the morning. Dean
arrived on time at 10:00 A.M., looked over our equipment, loaded
the equipment into his vehicle, and with boat in tow, we were on
our way. There was a stop at the local fly shop for licenses and
flies, on the way to the lake. The boat was put in at Te Anau Downs,
and we started across the lake to a river called the Ettrick. area
is a fiordland, much like Norway or Sweden. It is like a rain forest,
very wet and very green. After unpacking the gear, the rods had
to be strung with line and fly. Dean was testing our equipment when
he casually threw a line with a fly into the mouth of the river.
A huge brown trout sucked the fly in, and the first fish of the
trip was hooked. Dean turned and said to us, "I didn't mean
to do that, do one of you want to land this fish?" Kristen
said "no". I excitedly said, "get up there and bring
that fish in, you need the experience." So she landed a fish
before she hooked one. We both thought naively, this is like shooting
ducks in a pond---wrong! We practiced here so Dean could get a handle
on how poor we both were at casting. It had been a year and a half
since Kristen had fished. I seem to have to relearn every time I
go.
Up the stream we trekked. Climbing over the huge
rocks and boulders was a feat in itself. Kristen hooked into a huge
brown trout. We all had big smiles on our faces. She played the
fish, but unfortunately it broke off.
Dean was a master at sighting the fish in the crystal
clear water. I thought I could see them, but I was kidding myself.
We were coached not to go to close to the shore, or we would spook
the fish. A man in Dean's position must have the patience of Job.
He constantly had to untangle our lines, and replace flies we had
lost or mangled on the rocks.
Finally, I managed to get my cast right, and hooked a beautiful
two and a half pound rainbow. With Dean's coaching we were able
to net the fish.
We jumped back into the boat and switched to a river
called the Snag Burn. The term Burn is a Scottish word for river.
Scots were the first whites to explore and map out the area. I was
able to bring in another big brown. Kristen was feeling a bit down---thinking,
"I'm never going to get one in the net". At about 5:30
P.M., we crawled back into the boat and headed for the hut we were
to stay in for two nights. Upon arrival, we found three deer hunters
who had culled a red deer from the forest that day. Dean was a bit
uneasy, feeling that we might be uncomfortable sharing the cabin
with three strange men. The irony was that one of them was a venison
farmer and raised them for a living. Luckily, they were very nice
gentlemen, and kept offering us venison. We thanked them, but had
no way to prepare it. The deer compete with the endangered Kia Parrot,
so a hunter does not need a license to hunt in the fiordland. Later,
we tried farmed venison in a restaurant.
They call it cervena, and it is tender and delicious.
On day two of our wilderness adventure, we fished the Wood Burn.
Kristen hooked a 19 inch brown trout. This time she played the fish
and landed it like a pro, with Dean's coaching of course.
Did I mention the black flies? New Zealand has a
black fly much like our Michigan black fly. It bites with a ferocious
sting. I had to literally bathe in DEET or be devoured. Taking care
of our daily necessities was a real challenge. Along the way we
saw rare blue ducks, giant green ferns, and moss covered rocks and
trees.
We switched to the Junction Burn. Kristen slammed
and netted one of the most beautiful rainbows we had ever seen.
Because the water is so clear, the rainbows are silver with a phosphorescent
pink strip running down the middle.
I wasn't doing well that day, so Dean opened his
fly box and said, "We need one of Dr. Dean's Deathly No Option
Flies", with the hope that I could place one right in front
of a hungry fish. A few hundred feet up the Burn I hooked and netted
a brown. Kristen topped the day with a 22 inch brown trout, by casting
over the top of a downed tree and ducking under the tree to play
the fish. I limped and crawled over rocks on the way back to the
boat, playing catch up, while Kristen and Dean discussed his bicycling
adventures in British Columbia and The Western United States. Dean
prepared a gourmet meal of pasta and pesto. We were about to fall
into bed when two more hunters arrived, and spent the evening visiting
and preparing their meal. By morning, the black flies and an all
night rain dampened their spirits and sent them packing for home.
Day three found us on the Mid Burn in a warm summer rain. Kristen
hooked into two browns. One was four and a half pounds; the other
was twenty four inches. Unfortunately I fell short. When I did manage
to get the fly in front of a fish, it didn't like what I was offering.
We finished our adventure on a small creek which Dean renamed "Fishless
Creek", as there were no fish to be sighted.
As our time on the rivers was fading, Dean complemented
us by saying, "The English Girls came through with a fine catch
for the three days." It is a tribute to Dean's guiding and
coaching that we caught eight mammoth, beautiful New Zealand trout.
Dean admitted that in the beginning he wasn't sure if we would catch
fish.
Back on the mainland as we were waiting in the car while Dean hooked
up the boat, Kristen and I marveled over what a grand adventure
our fishing trip in New Zealand had been, and that it would remain
memorable for some time.
FYI contact Dean at:
Dean Bell
PO Box 198
Te Anau, South Island
New Zealand
001-64-3-249-8330
|