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On January 22, 2000, a friend and myself met
up with 25 other anglers in Chicago and headed south for a week of
fly fishing in Belize. For the unfamiliar, Belize is located east
of Guatemala on the southeastern end of the Yucatan peninsula. My
dream was to catch tarpon, bonefish, and permit but was willing to
settle just for bones. The bonefish were very cooperative and my friend
and I put fish in the boat each day. I had a beautiful tarpon on for
several minutes but after jumping three times, the hook straightened
and the fish was gone. I consider this experience as close to hooking
a freight train as possible!
We stayed at El Pescador Lodge on Ambergris Caye,
the largest island of Belize. The lodge specializes in catering
to fishermen and is about two miles from San Pedro Town, a small
town surrounded on two sides by water. It is easy to get around
in town as it is only 6 blocks long and 4 blocks wide! The people
in town were very friendly and helpful, despite a depressed economy.
The town has everything from a disco with neon lights
to a cyber café where you can rent Internet time. Getting
to town required either taking a water taxi from the lodge or walking
on a well marked trail (well, running, as it was plagued with mosquitoes.
Most days started with the guides taking us out
at 7:00 am. We fished until about 3:00 or 4:00 PM. Box lunches were
eaten on the boat and consisted of a sandwich, fruit, and a cookie
(two for me). The guides ranged in age from about 25 to over 60.
They all spoke English although some were easier to understand than
others. They were very knowledgeable and friendly. I don't think
anyone had a bad experience with his or her guide. Our guide for
four days had spent two years of evening classes studying the flora
and fauna of Belize and recognized every bird, ray, and crab hole
that we encountered. He was also a certified dive instructor and
operated a golf cart rental business on the side.
The bones that we caught weighed from one to four
pounds, which was about average. We saw a few larger ones but weren't
able to get a fly to them. A two pound fish still took me into my
backing using a six weight rod and an eight pound leader. The wind
wasn't too bad for that time of year but was challenging at times
(my partner did stick the guide and whack me in the head a couple
of times; I of course was "more betternot!). Our casts
were mostly from 20 to 50 feet, with a few errant casts that were
shorter and longer! The weather was absolutely perfectsun
every day, temperatures in the 80s, and just enough breeze to keep
cool.
One day was spent touring the Mayan ruins on the
mainland. The boat ride up the river to the ruins was worth the
trip alone. We saw too many wonderful birds to list, including a
nesting pair of endangered Jabiru storks (five feet tall with a
8-10 foot wingspan). We also saw a crocodile, an iguana, and howler
and spider monkeys. One monkey actually boarded our boat and received
a back massage free of charge from me! I would have loved to have
brought him home to my kids, but I don't think he would have liked
our long winters.
We spent a couple of hours one afternoon snorkeling
the reef. Scuba diving is the number one tourist attraction and
we saw why. Big schools of permit and a few tarpon along with sharks,
rays, an octopus, moray eels, yellow snapper, and much more. The
coral was also outstanding and we learned that the reef is the largest
living reef in the world. It is highly protected by the Belizeans
and you can only dive with a guide.
Ray and Angie Schmidt of Schmidt Outfitters in Wellston
put together this trip and did an outstanding job. Next year they
will go for two weeks and will be accompanied by casting guru Bruce
Richards. I am blocking out a week and saving my pennies for next
yearthis was easily the best fishing trip I've ever had and
actually the best vacation as well.
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